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Bellavista stuns with its colourful streets, its fanciful architecture and the lushness of a colossal tree-clad hill, the Cerro San Cristóbal, as a natural backdrop. No wonder it was here that Pablo Neruda,
Chile’s famous Noble-laureate poet, decided to build his home in the capital in the 1950s. On lazy, sunny days, this barrio feels like a village miles away from the roaring noise of la Alameda – even if it’s only a short walk from here. Yet it’s not Bellavista's daytime cuteness that pulls the punters. The area’s numerous snazzy bars, restaurants and cafés heave with crowds every weekend night as the barrio reaches fever pitch. This hotly desired location has drawn a massive investment in nightlife infrastructure and these days the Bellavista can, quite literally, cater for all tastes.
Your impressions of the districts of Providencia, Las Condes and Vitacura will largely depend on the expectations you’ve built around your Chilean experience. If it’s inspirational nature and earthy authenticity that
you’re craving for, it wouldn’t be surprising if you end up resenting this side of town. Yet for much that the eastern suburbs – or Santiago Oriente as commonly referred to – lack the charisma and warm-heartedness of the more traditional barrios, it’s hard to deny that these up-and-coming areas represent (perhaps to a higher degree than most visitors would admit) the true ambitions and aspirations of modern Chile.